My favourite moment of the day was the one following the end of the lessons because I went with my friends to "Lele’s", a Bàcaro frequented by university students. We took an "ombra", i.e. a glass of wine or a spritz, and the evening continued between goodies and laughter, even better if accompanied by the classic "cicheti", such as sandwiches with meats and cheeses.
Now, you may be wondering: what is a Bàcaro? And what do you mean by “ombra” and “cicheti”?
The name Bàcaro (with an accent on the first “a”) seems to derive from the Venetian expression "far bacara", meaning to party, make noise and have fun in general. We could say that the “Bàcaro” is simply a tavern, but it would be too banal and not entirely accurate.
The Bàcaro is a typical Venetian tavern, characterized by a simple and rustic decor, where they mainly serve “ombre” (glasses of wine) together with “cicheti” (small samples of food), displayed in the showcase on the counter.
However, the fundamental characteristic distinguishing a true Bàcaro is that it is frequented by the Venetians.
Wooden tables, barrels, ceilings adorned with pots, navigation instruments, gondolas, and anything else reminiscent of the Venetian tradition are the characteristic signs distinguishing the real Bàcaro from imitations for tourists.
The Bàcaro is synonymous with two things: drink good wine and eat tasty cicheti.
Let’s take a short journey in taste to see what awaits you in your adventure among the Venetian Bàcari.
Obviously, even the name of the typical products of the Bàcaro, “ombra” and “cicheto”, have their origin. The word “ombra” comes from the custom of street vendors of wine in St Mark’s Square who moved it following the shadow (“ombra” in Italian) of the bell tower to keep the product cool. “Cicheto”, instead, comes from the Latin “ciccus", meaning small quantity; classic cicheti are meatballs or fish-based, such as "sarde in saòr" or cream of codfish, but every bacaro offers a rich variety of cicheti.
Despite the value of Venetian wines, in a Bàcaro the wines served are often cheap, as tradition and the poor origin of the custom dictate. However, they are DOC wines of excellent quality.
Besides “ombre” and “cicheti”, you may have heard of “spritz”. Nowadays, it is a popular aperitif almost everywhere in Italy, but I assure you that the “spritz” you will drink in Veneto beats them all. Presumably, “spritz” derives from the fact that Austrian soldiers stationed in Venice sprayed (“spritzen” in German) full-bodied Venetian wines with Seltz or water. Today, the Venetian spritz recipe includes Aperol or Campari, prosecco, sparkling water or Seltz, a slice of orange and sometimes even an olive!
I am Team Spritz, strictly with Aperol!
There is no "ombra" without "cicheti". Each Bàcaro offers its own, but they are all based on the typical multiethnic Venetian cuisine. Among the most common, you will find:
- Sardinians in saor
- cod whipped on polenta croutons
- meatballs, artichoke grounds, mozzarella in carriage
- fried fish, grilled cuttlefish, marinated anchovies, fish salad, folpetti (moscardini)
- vegetable omelettes, boiled eggs
- sandwiches, filled sandwiches at the moment
Over the years, I have tasted so many, but my favourite “cicheto” remains the one with creamed cod, a real treat for the palate!
Venice is undoubtedly a wonderful city, an open-air museum full of unique and inimitable works of art. Still, Venice is also its tradition and history, and the Bàcari are part of it. There is a Bàcaro on every corner, “calle” (street) and “campiello” (square) of the city.
A “Bàcaro Tour” is a different way to visit the city, experience it, and fully enjoy it in all its facets; a unique and authentic experience, to try at least once in your life. Going to Bacari is a custom, but it is also a tasty and convivial pleasure you can’t miss, even if you only come to Venice for a few days.
A “Bàcaro Tour” is a food journey at the discovery of “ombre” and “chicheti” but also of hidden corners of a unique city and people.
Visiting them all is impossible, so I've selected a few and put together an itinerary on which you will discover a bacaro for each “sestiere” (district. Venice is divided into 6 neighbourhoods, thus sestiere), starting from Piazza San Marco and back. (https://goo.gl/maps/Yr3DDjFJXTxDcE529)
- Castello: Aciugheta
- San Marco: Bacarando
- San Polo: Cantina Do Mori
- Cannaregio: Al Timon
- Santa Croce: Da Lele
- Dorsoduro: Cantinone già Schiavi
- CASTELLO – ACIUGHETA
It is located in Campo San Filippo e Giacomo and offers cicheti of excellent quality and often revisited with respect to tradition.
- SAN MARCO – BACARANDO
Located in Calle dell'Orso, this place is very suitable for young people. The wide selection of cicheti is exquisite, especially the mozzarella in the carriage.
- SAN POLO – CANTINA DO MORI
Located in Calle Do Mori, it is among the oldest bacari in Venice and is also said to have been the place where the young Casanova used to give first dates to his sweethearts. Even today it is still one of the most popular bacari, thanks to its typical Venetian decor and atmosphere.
- CANNAREGIO – AL TIMON
In fondamenta degli Ormesini you can find Al Timon, a quaint bacaro and very popular with both tourists and locals, who appreciate the delicious “cicheti” and the wide range of wines.
- SANTA CROCE – DA LELE
Typical meeting point for university students at Campo dei Tolentini, this Bàcaro is an unmissable stop on any respectable tour. Very small but very characteristic, rich in “cicheti” and “ombre” of all kinds.
- DORSODURO – CANTINONE GIA’ SCHIAVI
We are at the bridge of San Trovaso, last stop of our Bàcaro Tour. One of the historical Bàcari of Venice, mandatory destination of every Bàcaro tour. The windows filled with “cicheti” attract like a magnet. There are all kinds, the best are the ones based on tuna.
Fun fact: A few steps away you can admire the Squero di San Trovaso, the typical Venetian shipyard where create, build and repair boats of small dimensions such as gondolas, pupparini, sandoli, sciopòni and other boats typical of the Venetian lagoon tradition.
And as a Venetian would say, it’s time of "andare per ombre" (ie go to drink wine in taverns).
See you in some Bacaro, ciao da Francesca